Fjords

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Cruising through the stunning scenery of Norway’s fjords

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Despite the lateness, the sudden announcement causes a frenzy of activity. “The captain has notified us that the northern lights are visible to the rear of the ship.” 

Within minutes it seems every passenger on ­Hurtigruten’s MS NordkappIMG_7972 has appeared on deck in various stages of cold-weather readiness. There is ­scarcely any conversation. Even the frenzied click of cameras quickly abates. The ethereal green swirls that dance across the clear inky sky are entrancing. Our ­voyage up the Norwegian coast has promised myriad natural treasures and has already paid off.

We are cruise neophytes wary of setting out aboard the equivalent of a

Reflections of a perfect village in the Fjords

Urke is one of those Norwegian fjord villages that makes your heart flutter with pleasure when you see it. It looks out over towering walls of jagged black granite frame water so clear it would reflect your soul if you hung over the ship rail far enough.

Fifty-three people live in the village all in traditional homes which looks out over sublime views of Hjorundfjord which is about as unspoiled environment as you are going to find. They have their own supply of hydro-power, there is fish from the fjord but there is also a large sustainable fish farming. They grow their own vegetables and raise livestock, particularly sheep. All of which, together with tourists from the Fjord cruise ships, provides their livelihood.

Visitors who want to escape the buzz-saw of everyday life can check in atIMG_8010 the beautiful, historic Union Hotel. The rooms look as comfortable and inviting as they did more than a century ago when it played host to some of Europe’s richest and noblest families (only updated with modern plumbing) in the very early days of tourism in Norway. Not far away is the region’s largest mountain, Kvitegga, at 1703m already sporting a snow toupe. Walking trails that

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