Despite the lateness, the sudden announcement causes a frenzy of activity. “The captain has notified us that the northern lights are visible to the rear of the ship.”
Within minutes it seems every passenger on Hurtigruten’s MS Nordkapp
has appeared on deck in various stages of cold-weather readiness. There is scarcely any conversation. Even the frenzied click of cameras quickly abates. The ethereal green swirls that dance across the clear inky sky are entrancing. Our voyage up the Norwegian coast has promised myriad natural treasures and has already paid off.
We are cruise neophytes wary of setting out aboard the equivalent of a
