Despite the lateness, the sudden announcement causes a frenzy of activity. “The captain has notified us that the northern lights are visible to the rear of the ship.” 

Within minutes it seems every passenger on ­Hurtigruten’s MS Nordkapp has appeared on deck in various stages of cold-weather readiness. There is ­scarcely any conversation. Even the frenzied click of cameras quickly abates. The ethereal green swirls that dance across the clear inky sky are entrancing. Our ­voyage up the Norwegian coast has promised myriad natural treasures and has already paid off.

We are cruise neophytes wary of setting out aboard the equivalent of a

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